Shetland trip June 2021 - owls, phals & skuas

Last year we'd planned a trip to Shetland primarily to see breeding species we only normally see on passage in our part of the UK. In addition we were hoping to catch up with orca and otter so plans were made for a 4-5 day visit., Unfortunately, as with most plans to  go away last year, it fell through but with the easing of restrictions we decided to go this year. 

With flights confirmed it was only left to book the accommodation. Initially we were going to stay at the Brae Hotel but at the last minute the self catering apartment at Sumburgh Lighthouse became available so we choose that. With breeding Puffins on our doorstep there was also the possibility of cetaceans being seen so it seemed a logical choice. 

The flight from Glasgow was uneventful and Fred, Malc & me met up with Andy at the airport as he'd arrived earlier. Andy had also been shopping to get a few basics provisions in - beer, milk, bread, butter and jam! 

Being so far north it hardly gets dark on Shetland so we still had time to explore Sumburgh head and reacquaint ourselves with an area we only normally see in autumn! 

Puffins were everywhere and proved to be very photogenic! We watched the interact with each other and saw a number of birds reinforcing their pair bond by 'bill clapping' - see video below.

For the last couple of years an adult Long-tailed Skua has been holding territory o nShetland and there were regular reports of it coming into bathe at Loch Clumlie  - a site where Red-necked Phalaropes also came in to feed. Our first couple of attempts at the skua were unsuccessful - it only comes in to bathe for a few minutes each day - but eventually we connected. Fred picked it up flying in behind us before it flew over and landed on a fence post about a mile away. What a beautiful bird! 

The Phalaropes showed pretty well and it was great to see these dainty little waders on their breeding grounds. It's one of the big success stories for breeding waders on Shetland.

Before we'd set off for Shetland we had a rough itinerary of what we wanted to do. That included going on a seabird tour around the island of Noss with Phil Harris of Shetland Seabird Tours (see here). Even us hardened birders were impressed with the sheer scale of the cliffs and the spectacle of thousands of Gannets plunge diving alongside the boat! With Kittiwakes, Bonxies, Fulmars and auks thrown in it was a superb experience and one guaranteed to bring a smile to your face. However, it was sad to see a dead Gannet hanging fro ma piece of rope it had become entangled in whilst trying to bring it to its nest. Almost every nest had pieces of discarded fishing net, nylon rope or plastic incorporated into it. A sad indictment of what we are doing to our oceans

Bonxie (Great Skua)

One of our other 'target' species was Snowy Owl. These used to breed on Fetlar and I last saw one in 1976! A male has been resident on Ronas Hill on Shetland mainland for the last 3 years and this year was joined by a female and it was hoped there would be a breeding attempt. Unfortunately it didn't happen and the female moved to Unst. We decided to make the long journey north to Unst as there were also a couple of other birds we wanted to see  - singing Marsh Warbler and an albino Great Northern Diver at Norwick. 

The Marsh Warbler was singing but didn't show itself and we saw the albino Great Northern Diver distantly whilst talking to local birder Dave Cooper. Dave also gave us some more information on the possible whereabouts of the female Snowy Owl so we set off to search.............3 hours later, having covered a lot of rough ground we couldn't find it although we knew from Dave that it hadn't been seen for a few days.

What a fabulous spot though. Breeding waders galore - Whimbrel, Golden Plover and Dunlin with Redshank on the boggier areas. We were also treated to close up views of an Arctic Skua that decided to land right in front of us. Sadly this is another bird thats declined massively in Shetland with only a handful of pairs now attempting to breed.

Arctic Skua

Breeding plumaged Redshank

Whimbrel calling

Having failed on Unst we got more information about the Ronas Hill male Snowy Owl and was told that early evening was best as it moves around hunting. With almost 24 hours of daylight on Shetland this time of year we decided to give it a go one evening so arrived at  Collafirth Firth Hill and started preparing for what we'd assumed would be a long evening. The bird hadn't been seen for awhile and was ranging over a large area. As soon as we'd got out the car Malc pointed out a white blob on the hillside about 1 km away and Andy got his scope on it. After a few moments whilst he, apparently, waited for it to move its head, he announced - I've got the F##c&&ng Snowy Owl. Disbelief and subsequent jubilation all round as we all took turns to look through his scope. 

With Andy deciding to stay with the car the rest of us set off up the hill to get a closer view. We had to descend into a valley and climb the other side where the Owl was sitting on a ridge. We couldn't see it from where we were so Andy kept us informed of its movements. It was actively hunting and flying along the ridge before perching up on various rocks whilst it scanned for its prey. It's been hunting Mountain Hares and wader chicks.

At the top of Collafirth Hill grabbing food before our trek.

Martian landscape - an impressive boulder field for a Snowy Owl to hide.

Keeping low we approached the ridge the bird was last seen on and sure enough it was still sat in the place Andy had described. Taking it in we watched as it flew again before landing on a large boulder. What a majestic bird.

Eventually it flew over the next ridge and Fred & I followed it getting more good views as it started moving around its preferred hunting grounds. 

Me at the top of the boulder field in Andy's down jacket as I'd forgotten mine! 

View back towards Collafirth Hill where we'd parked the car.

We saw two Mountain Hares actually on the 'tops' and a leveret further down as we drove the car back down the rocky track leading up from Collafirth Hill.

It's a harsh environment and with no Lemmings or Voles to feed on the Owl must struggle in winter. It was a tired, sweaty but happy team that eventually got to bed at around 1 am! 

Another bird we wanted to catch up with was Corncrake and we were given a couple of sites. After several attempts we did hear a singing male at one of the sites but it remained resolutely invisible in its weedy field.

Shetland has its own species of Bumblebee. Funnily enough called Shetland Bumblebee. I'd never see none before as all but one of my previous visits has been in the autumn. I managed to find several this trip which was a nice bonus.

Shetland is a wonderful place in spring. The sheer number of breeding waders is amazing. There were Snipe 'chipping' and drumming everywhere. Oystercatchers were omnipresent and Wheatears were seemingly singing from every field. Wild orchids seem to be on every roadside verge with Northern Marsh orchid being the commonest species we saw.

Male Wheatear

Black Guillemot, Lerwick Harbour.

We didn't see Orca as the regular pod had decided to decamp to Caitheness before we arrived. We did see several otters but usually in pouring rain so  I didn't get any photographs. All in all it was a great trip with great company and it was nice to meet up with a few friends who live on Shetland. I can see a spring trip coming up again next year.....