Khao Yai National Park and a surreal experience with Thailands national bird.

After a  later than usual breakfast at 6.45  we were driven to the Khao Yai National Park for our second and final day. 

Forest Wagtail was one species of bird I'd hoped to see in Thailand and eventually we ended up seeing four different birds at two locations. They were surprisingly elusive and hard to pick up among the dead leaves and shadows.

Whilst still in the car park we had a flock of five Golden-crested Myna's flyover with Hill Myna's and a shrike spotted by Alan & Marc turned out to be our first Grey-backed Shrike of the trip - a fairly common winter visitor to Thailand.

We also managed to catch up with a pair of Blue-bearded Beeeaters  - the world's largest beeeater.

A fantastic looking bird and the fourth beeeater species we'd seen on the trip so far with Blue-tailed, Asian Green and Chestnut-capped having already been added to the trip list.

Siamese Fireback was one species we all wanted to see. It's Thailands National bird and features on the cover of 'The Birds of Thailand that our guide, Jay had co-authored. If we din't see one in the national park Jay had a plan B and so after lunch we found ourselves driving a couple of hours to the Sakaerat Biosphere Reserve where we were, according to Jay, guaranteed to see this beautiful pheasant. Apparently they come out of the surrounding forest to feed on the edge of the tracks at certain hours of the day.

The habitat at the lower elevations of the park was markedly different to we'd experienced before - dry deciduous forest - and the birds were hard to find. We did manage one of our targets in this new habitat - Rufescent Prinia. We also saw several Red-breasted Parakeets and a Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker and several Oriental Cuckoo Shrikes.

Time waits for no man and we soon embarked back int the mini--vans to drive up to the visitors centre where we'd be able to enter the evergreen forest areas inhabited by the firebacks.

Our hearts dropped as we entered the car park to find a large party of high school students on a field trip. We were supposed to be climbing into one of the rangers pickups to take us to the site but everyone was filled with smiling and waving youngsters. We thought our chances of seeing the firebacks were very slim with som much noise! Luckily we were told that we could take our van up the path to a certain point where we'd then have to go forward on foot. 

Walking forward we could see all the kids sitting quietly in a semi circle surrounding  teacher who was talking to them whilst, unbelievably a male Siamese Fireback wandered around in full view just  few metres away! 

So began perhaps one of the most surreal birding moments I've ever experienced. We joined the throng of students to find not one but at least twelve male and female pheasants milling around feeding on grains. After 20 minutes or so the students waved their happy goodbyes and left us alone to enjoy these magnificent birds to ourselves. 

Photography was hard as they were so close and at one point a male was displaying to me and pecking the sole of my boot as a I knelt down on the track.

A headshot of a male Siamese Fireback is the stunning front cover picture of the 'Birds Of Thailand' co-authored by Jay and I tried to get a similar photo.

As quietly as they'd arrived the birds started melting back into the forest and we headed back to our vans and the visitors centre where our student friends waved us all goodbye again. A very happy group of birders arrived back at our hotel for our last night. Tomorrow we'd be looking for Rufous Limestone Babbler before flying north to Chiang Mai where we'd be exploring the more mountainous areas of northern Thailand.

Khao Yai National Park. Day 1.

After breakfast we set off for Khao Yai National park and as we were on the approach road Jay suddenly spotted a pair of Long-tailed Broadbills on wires alongside the road so we stopped and all piled out the mini-vans to obtain better views.

A great start to the day and we weren't done yet. A bit further down the road we stopped again and picked up Cambodian Flowerpecker, a near endemic species, along with Red-headed and Orange-breasted Trogons. Jay picked up a Banded Kingfisher on call and after a bit of searching found it perched up in deep cover. This was another species we'd hoped to catch up with and it can be quite difficult to see.

To far for the camera but I managed this photo through jay's 'scope with my phone.

Arriving at Khao Yai National Park our 1st port of call was the visitors centre to use the toilet facilities! Sone of our group were lucky enough to see Asian Elephants but this was as close as I got to any! This park is the biggest in Thailand and  covers an area of 2000 km2 with over 300 bird species being recorded in the forested and mountain areas.

Once we'd checked in and completed the toilet formalities it was down to more serious birding. There are several campsite in Khao Yai and we explored these adding new species as we walked around. Sambar Deer walked around unconcerned by the people around them but the Pig-tailed macaques saw the camp site as a raiding opportunity and we several of these audacious primates entering tents or the back of trucks to rob whatever food they could find.

Other highlights were a rather showy Water Monitor and Red Jungle fowl. The latter proved their wild credentials by flying across the river! Although I'd seen Red Jungle fowl in Malaysia (see here) these were a definite upgrade as the ones I'd seen were from a re-introduction programme.

We paid a visit to the famous Haew Suwat Waterfall that starred in the film 'The Beach' when a youthful  Learnardo Di' Caprio jumped off into the pool below. A real tourist hotspot and we soon moved on after the obligatory photos.

Pileated Gibbons called around us but proved to be frustratingly difficult to see despite being only a few metres away in the dense undergrowth. An incredible sound.

A Greater Flameback (woodpecker) was heard calling and eventually gave brief but good views whilst a new species of babbler for the trip - Puff-throated babbler proved to be more obliging. a

Puff-throated Babbler

Black-crested Bulbul

A real surprise was Blue-rock Thrush. Totally unlike the Blue- rock Thrush we're used to seeing in Europe and more like a Rock Thrush. This was the race philippensis and is a winter visitor to the area.

Blue -rock Thrush (race philipensis)

Crested Serpent Eagle

We took the mini-vans up to the Pha Diew Dai viewpoint 1000 metres above sea level.  A displaying Black Eagle was a fantastic sight and the undergrowth was full of Alstroms, Martens and Claudia's Leaf warbler - all phylloscopus warblers that I'd only read about in books. Star bird for me though was the stunning male Hill Blue Flycatcher that posed a storm for the camera.

There was a treat in store for us as dusk descended. On the way out of the park we stopped by a large lake where Brown-backed Needletails came down to drink before going to roost. Whilst we were waiting for these to appear a Northern Red Muntjac Deer appeared and, unbelievably, three Crested Porcupines chose that moment to appear on the edge of the forest and run along the edge of the car park before disappearing back into the forest

Brown-backed Needletail

Jay hoped we'd see Great-eared Nightjar and a shout from Jaeb had us looking to the skies where we eventually saw three of these fabulous birds.

As darkness fell we left the park for our hotel and a well deserved dinner. As we drove along in darkness our headlights picked up one last mammal to add to what was already an impressive list - Golden Jackal! We were slightly deflated when we got back to find the other mini-van group had trumped us with an Asian Elephant!

Leaving Kaeng Krachan 1. A travel day

Checking out of the Nana Resort our drivers drove us to Khao Yai where we'd be staying at the Recall Isaan Resort  hotel  for three nights. We stopped a couple of times on the way and at one spot for a particular bird - Indochinese Bushlark. It wasn't long before Jay heard one singing and before long we'd found two feeding on the ground. They were very reminiscent of our own Woodlarks

Later we checked out a site for Alexandrine Parakeet at the Wat Luang Royal Temple. Unfortunately Rose-ringed Parakeets, a non native species, had invaded the area and all we saw was a possible hybrid Alexandrine x Rose-ringed Parakeet. 

Slightly deflated we had one more surprise in store when Jay took us to an unassuming industrial site where we stopped right next to a Fire Station to look for Spot-bellied Eagle Owl and a roost of Red-breasted Parakeets.

The parakeets were easy to see as they came into the roost site squawking and generally behaving in the raucous manner that all parakeet species seem to enjoy. Flying around in nosy groups and sittign at thetops of trees calling.

Just round the corner from the roost and right alongside the fire station we enjoyed fantastic views of a pair of Great Hornbills displaying and passing food to each other. 

Jay pointed out the nest hole the owls had previously used and we started scanning the trees around us to see if we could pick up an owl roosting. Our search was temporarily brought to a halt by the appearance of millions of Wrinkle-lipped bats flying out of their roosts. An amazing sight as swarm after swarm passed overhead.

Wrinkle-lipped bats

By now it was becoming quite dark but suddenly a movement caught Jays eye in the hole in which the owls had nested in previous years and a female Spot-bellied Eagle Owl appeared and flew to a nearby tree and stayed in full view for at least 20 minutes! 

Owl watchers

A great result and it was a happy group that arrived soon after at Recall Isaan Resort where we'd be spending the next three nights whilst exploring the Khao Yai National Park. As soon as we arrived I picked up a new bird when a Brown Boobok started calling near my room. There was only one thing to do and the next morning Jay, Howard, Alan, Marc and myself went out with the thermal camera whilst it was still dark and found it sat in the top of a tree. 

We also found  an endangered Mainland Serow in the thermal. A rare treat indeed as this gloat like species of antelope is classed as globally threatened due to habitat loss and poaching. 

As daylight broke it was time for breakfast before heading into the national park.

Coppersmith Barbet calling in hotel gardens