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7 Feb 2024

Antarctic Expedition. Part 1. Buenos Aries

In 1982, whilst still at University,I applied for and was accepted to join the British Antarctic Survey as an ornithologist. Unfortunately I never go there as Argentina invaded the Falkland's and all BAS staff were returned home. I ended up working in Finland instead before moving back to the UK and meeting my future lovely wife! There was a silver lining after all. I've been harbouring a wish to visit the frozen continent for many years and finally decided to book up to go on an 18 day cruise with Oceanwide Expeditions on the MV Plancius sailing out of Ushuaia. Firstly though I had to get there! 

Taking advice from friends who'd done the trip in previous years I flew from Manchester to Heathrow and then onto Buenos Aries where  I spent the night before flying south to Ushuaia. Unbelievably Steve Griffin, who I first met on the Shetlands, was doing the same trip but on the sister ship the Ortelius. He was imbedded in a tour group with Naturetrek and they were leaving Ushuaia the day before I was. We were on the same flight and I'd arranged to stay at the same hotel so we could catch up later. 

The Hotel Madero was walking distance from the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur which provided us wit ha good introduction to Argentinian bird life! Steves group had an informal walk arranged around the reserve and I was able to tag along. 

I hadn't allowed for the fact that Buenos Aries is blisteringly hot during their summer and only had clothes suitable for cooler climates sos I was sweltering by the time we'd walked the short distance from the hotel to the reserve.

It was a great few hours and we managed to see 53 species of which 47 were new to me! 

Black and Rufous Warbling Finch

Brown-breasted martin

Chalk- browed Mockingbird

Chivi Vireo

Rofous-collared Sparrpw

Double-collared Seedeater

Golden-billed Saltator

Greater Kiskadee

Greyish Baywing

Limpkin

Narrow-billed Woodcreeper


Rufous Hornero

Saffron Finch

Monk Parakeet

Red-crested Cardinal

Southern Screamer

Tropical Parula

Wattled Jacana


Yellow-billed Cardinal

After having very little sleep on the plane I was knackered. The combination of tiredness and heat took it out of me so after returning to the hotel and having a well earned shower I joined Steve in the bar for a couple of beers and some food before hitting my bed! Tomorrow was going to be another day of travel in which I had to again negotiate with robbing taxi drivers to get to the domestic airport before my flight to Ushuaia.

1 Jan 2024

The final visit to Hillbre of 2023

I've been a bit remiss writing up this blog recently . The run up to Christmas and the main event itself is always a busy time in our household and since we came back from Mauritius I haven't dome much birding apart from locally around the village. The festive season also corresponded to some pretty grim weather which wasn't exactly conducive to getting out much. My ongoing knee issue and a consequential back issue has also made it difficult for me to get around! With intensive physio slowly making me more mobile I decided to spend the final day of 2023 on Hilbre. The winds had dropped and the day promised much as there wasn't supposed to be any rain! I also wanted to try out some new camera settings suggested by my old Uni birding mate Andy Swash before heading off to Antartica in a couple of weeks.


I had the whole island to myself over the tide and enjoyed photographing the Purple Sandpipers that can be incredibly tame if you sit and wait for them to come to you. 





Other regulars included the long staying female Kestrel and the group of Eider - including an adult male.




A surprise was a group of Knot that spent the high tide on the rocks at the south end of the island with some of the Brent Geese. Unfortunately there were no colour flagged birds among them.


One of the things I wanted to practice was Andys advise on birds in flight with the Olympus OM1 Luckily the local Herring Gulls were actively picking up mussels and dropping them to crack the shells so gave some opportunity to practice before the heavy rain started


A great day and the weather cleared just enough for a wateery sunset before I made my way off the island as darkness fell.





4 Dec 2023

Stop that pigeon now....... Mauritius Pink Pigeon

Those of a certain age, like me, will remember a children's TV cartoon staring Dick Dastardly and his side kick Muttley in the spin off from 'Wacky Race's called 'Stop that Pigeon' where the mission was to stop Yankee Doodle Pigeon from delivering mail. Dastardly Dick came up with numerous Dastardly plans to try and stop that pigeon to no avail 

We'd planned a holiday to Mauritius with a view to just enjoying the tropical warmth, good food and a relaxing time on the beach and in the sea. Of course, being a birder, a was well aware that Mauritius held a number of endemic species and I hatched my own dastardly plan to try and catch up with a few - including that pigeon - Mauritius Pink Pigeon.

Armed with information from Fred & Jason I'd worked out the best place to go to maximise my chances of catching up with this highly endangered species along with Echo Parakeet  & Mauritius Kestrel. The plan was to spend some time in th Black Gorges National Park, the only large area of natural growth rain forest left on Mauritius and, specifically the Petrin visitors centre and the Macchabee Forrest Loop.


Before we left for Mauritius I'd contacted two guiding companies - one never replied and the other let me down a week before our trip. Fred suggested getting a taxi and letting him wait for me whilst I birded the trail. Contacting a taxi company they agreed to pick me up at 06.15 from our hotel and drop me off and then wait until I'd finished - all for the sum of £50!

 There is a captive breeding and release programme for both Pink Pigeons and Echo Parakeets to boost numbers in the wild and the pigeon release pens are behind the visitor centre. The feeders there also attract non-native species such as Madagascan Fody, Common Waxbill  and Village Weaver.


Common Waxbill


Mauritian Fody


Village Weaver nest building

Unfortunately the weather closed in whilst I was there and I got soaked. The rain was warm though and I carried on birding the trail hoping to catch up with some of the specialities. From the numerous viewpoints I picked up a Mauritius Kestrel perched brifely before it flew off towards clearer skies - my 2nd of the trip as we'd had one perched ona telgraph pole whilst driving from the airport to the hotel near Bel Ombre nature reserve.


Picking up an unfamiliar song whilst sheltering beneath a tree from a particularly heavy shower I was pleased to find another target species directly in front of me but always hard to see - Mauritian Bulbul.

With the rain easing I carried on dow nthe trail and soon picked up the distinctive 'Kark, Kark' call of the endemic Echo Parakeet. Unfortunately Rose-ringed Parakeets have been introduced to the island so the only way to be sure of the species you are seeing is by hearing it call. I found a small group consisting of a male, female and what appeared to be a recently fledged youngster. Female Echo Parakeets have an all dark bill - unlike female Rose-ringed Parakeets. In this respect I found a mistake on in the guide book I'd bought for our previous trip to The  Maldvies.


If you've got this book check out the plate on page 105. There are a number of illustrations wrongly numbered and although the text clearly describes the bill colours the numbered illustration is actually of Ring-necked Parakeet! Checking back at the hotel I went from happy to pissed off double quick time until  I noticed the mistake as one of my photos clearly showed a bird with an all dark bill.

Female Echo Parakeet

Male Echo parakeet

Another break in the weather produced a sudden flurry of bird movement and I found a Pink Pigeon perched up close to the track where it sat staring at me until I moved on as my attention was drawn to another target endemic as a Mascarene Paradise Flycatcher flew past almost level with my eyes never to be seen again.

The clearer skies also meant hirundines had started flying around and I soon picked up Mascarene Swiftlet  to add to the Mascarene Martins seen flying around our hotel. With time pressing I started on the return loop back to the car park adding both  endemic Mauritius Olive White-eye and Mauritius Cuckoo Shrike to th trip list. Luckily  Igot back to the taxi just as the heavens opened again.

Our hotel grounds were teeming with birds and from our balcony we were often visited by the ubiquitous and non-native Red-cheeked Bulbul as well as the occasional family group of endemic Mauritius Grey White-eye.





The hotel grounds were home to a large colony oof the beautiful Mauritius Fruit bats and they were seen daily feeding on the fruits of the Banyan Trees. Every morning the staff swept up the remains of the bats meals they'd dropped but before they did so it gave an opportunity for me to catch up with a few more species taking advantage of the dropped food. Yellow-eyed Canary, Spotted Dove, Zebra Dove and Madagascan Turtle Dove.




A tidal creek ran through the hotel grounds and at low tide, when the mud banks were exposed, Green-backed Herons hunted crustaceans. whilst Mascarene Martins hawked for insects and perched up on the nearby building.



There aren't a huge amount of birds to see on Mauritius and I recorded 26 species of which 14 were lifers. Mauritius is a beautiful island and steps are being made to conserve their endemic fauna and flora. A lot of bird species have been introduced over the years. The scenery is spectacular and  we also took a boat trip out to look at dolphins and snorkel o na reef. I had mixed feelings bout booking the dolphin trip until i found out the Mauritian Government control such activities very strictly and boats are only allowed to approach dolphins between 07-10am every day. We were lucky enough to see migrating Bottle-nosed Dolphins and the boat we were on kept a respectable distance and allowed the dolphins to come to us.



Mauritius is famous for the now extinct Dodo and everywhere we went souvenir Dodo's were being sold A poignant reminder of how fragile these small island ecosystems are.